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  • SONOGI TAMA | green

    notes — narutomaki | udon | chewy

    SONOGI TAMA is a steamed tamaryokucha ("coiled green") from Nagasaki, Japan. One of four cultivars by the four producers of our house matcha, each carries the distinct character of its maker and the seaside terroir. Satisfying chew with notes of udon and imitation crab.

    Format

    SONOGI TAMA is a steamed tamaryokucha ("coiled tea") from Sonogi Tea Cooperative in Higashisonogi, Nagasaki prefecture, Japan. Colloquially referred to as guricha ("curly tea"), tamaryokucha is a relatively rare tea outside of Japan, accounting for very little of Japan's domestic production. So when the 4 makers of our house matcha, whose character is informed by the unique stylings of each farmer-producer, let us know they'd given the same treatment to a southern Japanese classic, we jumped on it.

    Tamaryokucha—or tama, as we call it—can be either pan-fried (in the Chinese fixing/kill-green style) or steamed (as most Japanese teas). These lots have all been steamed, which on the cupping table produces more vivid distinctions between the cultivars than pan-frying, in our view. The cultivars and their respective producers are:

    | OKUMIDORI by KAZUHIKO ONOUE
    | SAEMIDORI by KOSUKE NAKAYAMA
    | TSUYU-HIKARI by YOSHITAKA OHYAMA
    | YABUKITA by SHINYA FUKUDA

    This collector's set offers a rare study into the character of each cultivar and this genre of tea. Steep gently, side-by-side, in a kyusu or small teapot for the intended experience.

    vintage produced spring '23 | rested until autumn '23
    style — tamaryokucha ("coiled tea")
    cultivar(s) — okumidori | saemidori | tsuyu-hikari | yabukita
    region —higashisonogi, nagasaki, japan
    locale — sonogi tea cooperative
    elevation — 250 meters
    producer —shinya fukuda | yoshitaka ohyama | kosuke nakayama | kazuhiko onoue

    STEEPING PARAMETERS

    (use freshly boiled spring water)

    modern, large format
    [300 ml+ vessel — BOLI, large teapot]
    2.5 grams — 160°F (71°C) — 2 minutes

    traditional, small format
    [150 ml- vessel — gaiwan kyusu]
    4 grams — 160°F (71°C) — 10 seconds (no rinse)
    + 15 seconds each additional steep